The Flame Chevron Summer Top
By Nic Knits
(see photos in Google Doc version here)
SUPPLIES:
3-4 balls of 24/7 cotton yarn from Lion Brand - each 100 g / 186 yd / 170 m
4 mm circular needle (for 1x1 rib trim at bottom)
4.5 mm circular needle (for rest of garment)
DEFINITIONS:
CO = Cast on
1x1 rib = Knit 1, purl 1, repeat until end of row.
k = Knit (e.g., k5 means knit five stitches)
ssk = slip, slip, knit (put right needle into left stitch as if you are about to knit, then slip it on the right. Do this again with the next stitch on the left needle. Then put the left needle in the front of the two stitches on the right and knit them together.)
yo = Yarn over (this means creating a loop with your thumb and putting on the right needle as if it were a stitch)
k2t = Knit two together (put right needle knitwise through the two stitches on the left needle and knit them together)
RS / WS = Right side is the outside of the shirt. Wrong side is in the inside of the shirt.
For further clarification of knitting techniques, I recommend searching for tutorials on YouTube.
SIZES:
Five sizes - XS (I used 2 ½ balls of yarn, pictured in color Taupe for XS size), S, M, L and XL. Different sizes indicated in number of stitches to cast on.
[Flat measurements for size XS: About 18 inches wide and 17 inches long. (Bust is 36 inches for XS.)]
Bust is 39” for S, 42” for M, 45” for L, 48” for XL
DIRECTIONS:
- With 4 mm circular needle, CO 176 (190, 204, 218, 232) stitches using long tail method.
If you’d like to modify, keep in mind that the Flame Chevron stitch requires multiples of 7 plus 4 (for each side).
- Join in the round (I do this by casting on an extra stitch, then - being careful not to twist the yarn - moving that stitch onto the left needle and knit two together with the first stitch I cast on).
- Knit in 1x1 rib, adding in stitch marker after 88 stitches (to separate front from back)
- Continue in rib pattern for five more rows
Switch to 4.5 mm circular needles
- Begin Flame Chevron stitch (24-row lace stitch) in the round:
Row 1: k3, *ssk, k5, yo, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of the row (the back side of the shirt).
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: k3, *ssk, k4, yo, k1, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: k3, *ssk, k3, yo, k2, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: k3, *ssk, k2, yo, k3, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: k3, *ssk, k1, yo, k4, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: k3, *ssk, yo, k5, repeat from * to last stitch before marker, k1. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: k1, *yo, k5, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: k1, *k1, yo, k4, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: k1, *k2, yo, k3, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: k1, *k3, yo, k2, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 20: Knit.
Row 21: k1, *k4, yo, k1, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 22: Knit.
Row 23: k1, *k5, yo, k2t, repeat from * to last 3 stitches before marker, k3. Repeat for the rest of row.
Row 24: Knit.
-One iteration of the 24-row pattern should measure about 8 cm / 3.25 inches. Continue in pattern until the garment is at the desired length to reach below the armpits. (For me, this was two iterations, but you may want to knit a few more rows in pattern if you want a longer top.)
-Separate front from back - on next row, knit 88 (95, 102, 109, 116) stitches, then put the rest of the stitches on a stitch holder
-Continue to work the front in pattern, except purl on the even rows (since you are no longer working in the round).
-Keep going until you reach the desired length (if you put your stitches on a stitch holder, you can try on the shirt to check whether it reaches the top of your shoulders yet). For me, this was two more iterations.
-Switch to garter stitch (knit on both RS and WS) for three more rows, then cast off.
-Move stitches on the stitch holder back onto the needle and repeat same steps to complete the back.
-Seam the shoulders based on desired fit.
-Pick up and knit around the armholes in garter stitch for three rows and then cast off.
-Weave in ends. (Blocking is optional).
-Try on your shirt!
WASHING INSTRUCTIONS: It’s safe to put your hand-knit shirt in the washing machine on cold / delicate cycle. Then, lay flat to dry.